Secondary Watch Sales Hit $16.7B: Why CPO Now Shapes Pricing Power

Bottom Line Impact

Brands that actively shape certified resale can add a measurable growth and margin stream while reinforcing price discipline and brand equity, whereas brands that stay passive risk ceding pricing signals, client data, and liquidity control to third parties as resale approaches half of the primary market by value.

Key Facts

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  • Measured secondary luxury watch sales reached $16.7B in 2025, up 36.4% YoY (EveryWatch).
  • Including offline and messaging-app transactions, secondary market sales are estimated near $25B in 2025, ~50% of new watch retail sales value and rising (vs ~ $50B estimated new watch retail).
  • Rolex dominated secondary market value at $5.7B in 2025; Patek Philippe $2.2B, Audemars Piguet $1.6B, Omega $697M, Richard Mille $672M.
  • RCPO reached $590M sales in 2025, up 204% YoY, representing ~11% of second-hand Rolex sales through unauthorized channels.
  • Top early RCPO participants (Rolex-owned Bucherer, Watches of Switzerland Group, The 1916 Company) generated ~$270M RCPO sales in 2025, with trade-ins linking secondary liquidity to primary allocation access.

Executive Summary

The secondary watch market is now scaling faster than the primary market, with 2025 measured resale at $16.7B (+36.4% YoY) and broader estimates near $25B, approaching half of new watch retail value. EveryWatch frames 2025 as a structural inflection where primary and secondary markets are fully interdependent, making brand inaction a strategic risk rather than a neutral stance. Rolex's Certified Pre-Owned (RCPO) growth to $590M (+204% YoY) signals that controlling liquidity, trade-ins, and certification can recapture economics, reinforce authorized retail leverage, and reduce gray-market distortion.

Actionable Insights

Immediate Actions (Next 30-90 days)
Decide within 60-90 days whether to launch a brand-led CPO program, a selective authorized-retailer-led model, or a strategic partnership with a leading pre-owned platform, with a defined 12-month rollout plan and pilot markets.
Rationale: EveryWatch data indicates resale is no longer peripheral; it is setting market clearing prices and influencing primary demand. Rolex's RCPO demonstrates that official engagement can recapture economics and strengthen the authorized ecosystem rather than cannibalize it.
Role affected:CEO
Urgency level:immediate
Short-term Actions (6-12 months)
Build a lifecycle P&L model that quantifies incremental revenue and margin from CPO (certification fees, servicing, resale margin, trade-in driven primary uplift) and set a target to capture 5-10% of the brand's secondary value within 12-18 months.
Rationale: Rolex captured ~$590M, ~11% of unauthorized Rolex resale value; this establishes a practical benchmark that CPO can scale materially without waiting for primary market growth.
Role affected:CFO
Urgency level:short-term
Industrialize authentication, grading, and service capacity: set SLAs for service turnaround, create standardized grading tiers, and implement traceability (serial verification, digital records) to support scalable certification volume.
Rationale: CPO demand is constrained by operational throughput; without factory-grade service and consistent grading, brands cannot credibly set a pricing floor or deliver the trust premium that shifts transactions into the authorized network.
Role affected:COO
Urgency level:short-term
Strategic Actions
Negotiate retailer programs that tie trade-in sourcing and certified sales performance to primary allocations, and deploy trade-in credit offers to convert resale-first shoppers into new watch buyers.
Rationale: RCPO's reported benefit is ecosystem liquidity: trade-ins feed certified inventory and increase inventory flow, while allocation linkage aligns retailer incentives and reduces gray-market leakage.
Role affected:Chief Commercial Officer
Urgency level:strategic

Risks & Opportunities

Primary Risks
  • Cannibalization and channel conflict if CPO pricing undercuts new watches or if retailers perceive certification economics as shifting margin away from them.
  • Operational and reputational risk from inconsistent grading, counterfeit infiltration, or long service lead times that erode trust in certified programs.
  • Regulatory, tax, and cross-border compliance complexity as resale scales (VAT margin schemes, warranties, consumer protection), increasing friction and cost to operate.
Primary Opportunities
  • Capture aftermarket economics: certification, servicing, and resale spreads, adding a new growth lever when primary demand is flat or contracting.
  • Strengthen pricing power by setting an official reference price and condition standard, reducing gray-market distortion and volatility.
  • Deepen client lifetime value via trade-in loops, CRM integration, and verified provenance that supports repeat purchases and upgrading behavior.

Supporting Details

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