Ferragamo slips below €1B as Asia and wholesale drag intensifies

Bottom Line Impact

Unless Ferragamo rapidly restores footwear and leather goods desirability while tightening wholesale exposure, the most likely path is continued revenue pressure with markdown-driven margin compression, risking further share loss and slower brand equity rebuilding versus better-positioned mega-brands.

Key Facts

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  • FY2025 revenue: €976 million, down 5.7% versus 2024 (previously above €1.0 billion).
  • DTC sales: €752 million, down 3.1% YoY; wholesale sales: €191 million, down 17.5% YoY (largest channel decline).
  • Asia-Pacific sales: €246 million, down 15.6% YoY; Europe: €236 million, down 4.4% YoY; Japan: €78 million, down 6.0% YoY; US flat.
  • Footwear sales: €409 million, down 11.1% YoY (vs €461 million in 2024) and representing almost 50% of total sales, amplifying category-driven downside.
  • Management response: comprehensive business review with a stated plan to reinforce footwear and leather goods and improve collection economic efficiency (assortment and cost discipline).

Executive Summary

Ferragamo's 2025 miss of the €1 billion revenue milestone signals a structurally challenged mix: Asia-Pacific demand softness plus accelerated wholesale contraction. With footwear (nearly half of sales) down double-digits, the brand's near-term priority is to stabilize sell-through and protect gross margin via a sharper assortment and higher DTC productivity rather than chasing top-line growth at any cost.

Actionable Insights

Immediate Actions (Next 30-90 days)
Declare a 2-season product and merchandising reset focused on 10-15 hero footwear and leather goods franchises, with clear price ladders and fewer SKUs, and tie leadership incentives to full-price sell-through and DTC conversion rather than shipment volume.
Rationale: Footwear is down 11.1% and drives nearly half of sales; winning requires fewer, stronger stories that improve sell-through and reduce markdown reliance as wholesale contracts.
Role affected:CEO
Urgency level:immediate
Short-term Actions (6-12 months)
Re-base inventory and open-to-buy to the new demand reality: target a 10-15% reduction in slow-moving footwear SKUs and renegotiate wholesale terms to minimize returns/markdown funding while protecting cash conversion.
Rationale: Wholesale revenue fell 17.5%, signaling elevated inventory risk and partner caution; cash protection and inventory discipline are the fastest levers to prevent margin erosion.
Role affected:CFO
Urgency level:short-term
Run an Asia-Pacific recovery playbook by cluster: concentrate marketing and clienteling on top-tier cities and top stores, rebalance product allocations toward best sellers, and tighten promotional controls to protect price integrity across channels.
Rationale: Asia-Pacific is down 15.6% and is the largest regional drag; a targeted approach can lift productivity without over-investing broadly in a soft macro environment.
Role affected:Chief Commercial Officer
Urgency level:short-term
Strategic Actions
Shift spend from broad awareness to conversion-focused storytelling around modernized icons: content tied to specific SKUs, store activations, and CRM-triggered drops with measurable uplift targets (traffic, conversion, repeat rate).
Rationale: With US flat and Europe down 4.4%, demand is not collapsing everywhere, but conversion is fragile; performance-oriented brand building can protect equity while improving near-term ROI.
Role affected:CMO
Urgency level:strategic

Risks & Opportunities

Primary Risks
  • Margin compression from increased markdowns as wholesale doors clear inventory and DTC is forced to match price signals, especially in footwear.
  • Brand heat dilution if collection efficiency reduces novelty too aggressively, weakening desirability versus faster-moving competitors.
  • Asia exposure risk: prolonged China-related softness and lower tourist flows could keep Asia-Pacific negative, delaying recovery beyond 12 months.
Primary Opportunities
  • Channel quality upgrade: wholesale contraction can be used to reduce discount leakage and refocus on profitable DTC growth if retail productivity improves.
  • Category refocus: footwear and leather goods reinforcement can create a clearer brand signature and lift repeat purchase if hero products are scaled.
  • Operational leverage: collection economic efficiency (SKU rationalization, material simplification) can reduce complexity costs and improve gross margin stability.

Supporting Details

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