LVMH installs Laura Burdese to sharpen Bulgari growth after division dip

Bottom Line Impact

If LVMH translates this managed succession into a disciplined elevation and mix strategy, Bulgari can shift from being a drag on the Watches & Jewellery division's growth to a margin-accretive engine, improving divisional profitability, strengthening competitive standing versus Richemont, and reinforcing Bulgari's brand equity as a leading global high-jewellery maison.

Key Facts

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  • Appointment timing: Laura Burdese, 54, becomes managing director of Bulgari effective 1 July 2026, after serving as deputy managing director since July 2024 and as VP marketing & communications since 2022.
  • Division performance: LVMH's Watches & Jewellery division posted a 2% revenue decline to €7.4 billion in the first nine months of 2025, signaling underperformance versus group average and peer leaders in hard luxury.
  • Leadership continuity: Jean-Christophe Babin will remain Bulgari chairman, CEO of Bulgari Hotels, and president of the Bulgari foundation, preserving strategic continuity while relinquishing day-to-day brand management.
  • Reporting line: Burdese will report directly to Stéphane Bianchi, deputy managing director of LVMH and CEO of LVMH Watches & Jewellery, reinforcing tighter group oversight following the division's revenue softness.
  • Career background: Burdese joined LVMH in 2016 as CEO of Acqua di Parma and previously held roles at L'Oréal and Swatch, combining beauty-brand elevation expertise with watchmaking category experience highly relevant to Bulgari's repositioning.

Executive Summary

LVMH has named Laura Burdese as managing director of Bulgari effective 1 July 2026, formalizing a carefully staged succession designed to sustain the brand's elevation and restore momentum in a Watches & Jewellery division that saw revenue fall 2% to €7.4 billion in the first nine months of 2025. With Jean-Christophe Babin remaining as chairman and hotel CEO, the move balances continuity with a more marketing- and brand-driven leadership profile, creating a 12–18 month window to reset product, client, and regional strategies ahead of the next luxury upcycle.

Actionable Insights

Immediate Actions (Next 30-90 days)
Use the 2024–2026 transition window to mandate a clear, quantified elevation roadmap for Bulgari, including targets for mix shift toward high-jewellery and icons, regional exposure, and EBIT margin uplift for the Watches & Jewellery division.
Rationale: With leadership continuity assured yet refreshed, there is a rare opportunity to align brand strategy and group financial expectations before the new MD formally takes office, thereby turning a 2% revenue decline into a catalyst for structural performance reset.
Role affected:CEO
Urgency level:immediate
Recalibrate capital allocation and performance metrics for Bulgari around store productivity, high-jewellery contribution, and client profitability, with specific margin and ROIC thresholds that the new MD must deliver within 24–36 months.
Rationale: The division's 2% revenue decline suggests that top-line alone is no longer sufficient; embedding strict productivity and mix metrics into the new leadership's mandate will protect returns while supporting strategic elevation.
Role affected:CFO
Urgency level:immediate
Short-term Actions (6-12 months)
Co-design with Burdese a 24–36 month global brand platform that integrates jewellery, watches, fragrances, and hotels under a unified storytelling arc focused on Roman heritage, rare stones, and experiential luxury, with clear KPIs for brand preference and pricing power.
Rationale: Burdese's background in beauty and marketing can be leveraged to create a more coherent cross-category halo effect, strengthening Bulgari's distinctiveness versus peers and justifying further price and mix elevation.
Role affected:CMO
Urgency level:short-term
Strategic Actions
Treat Bulgari's succession as a template and build a formalised, multi-year succession pipeline for other key maisons, prioritising leaders with dual expertise in brand building and category operations.
Rationale: The smooth, internal succession at Bulgari demonstrates the value of long-cycle grooming; institutionalising this approach will reduce key-person risk and speed up strategic pivots across the portfolio.
Role affected:Chief HR / Chief Talent Officer
Urgency level:strategic

Risks & Opportunities

Primary Risks
  • Execution risk that brand elevation under Burdese results in over-aggressive price and assortment moves, alienating aspirational clients in a macro environment where demand for discretionary hard luxury is uneven across regions.
  • Internal friction or strategic drift if the split between Babin as chairman and Burdese as MD blurs decision rights on product, distribution, or CAPEX, slowing responses to market shifts.
  • Competitive response from Richemont and other jewellery leaders via accelerated high-jewellery launches, boutique upgrades, and clienteling investments that neutralise Bulgari's refreshed positioning.
Primary Opportunities
  • Reversing the Watches & Jewellery division's 2% revenue decline by using Bulgari as the spearhead brand for margin-accretive high-jewellery and hospitality-led experiences, targeting mid- to high-teens divisional growth over the medium term.
  • Leveraging Burdese's fragrance and beauty experience to deepen cross-selling between Bulgari jewellery, watches, and fragrances, increasing customer acquisition efficiency and lifetime value.
  • Using successful elements of Bulgari's transition playbook (elevation strategy, brand coherence, succession model) to upgrade underperforming brands within LVMH's hard-luxury portfolio.

Supporting Details

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