China pivot: from store rollouts to VIP clienteling to lift productivity

Bottom Line Impact

Pivoting to VIP clienteling in China can lift sales per store 5 to 12% and protect 100 to 200 bps of gross margin, strengthening price power and brand equity while capturing share even if the macro recovery remains patchy.

Key Facts

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  • China accounted for ~22% of global luxury sales in 2024 vs a 33% peak, per Bain
  • Mainland China luxury sales declined up to 20% in 2023, per Bain
  • European luxury stocks added nearly USD 80B in market value on improved China commentary
  • Louis Vuitton China sales rose ~5% YoY in August; 2024 goal is to avoid decline
  • Nanjing Deji Plaza posted CNY 24.5B sales in 2024 (~USD 3.4B), ranking as China’s top mall

Executive Summary

Luxury brands are shifting capital and operating focus in China from network expansion to high-touch clienteling to win share of resilient high earners amid a fragile recovery. Expect higher sales per store, stronger price defense, and deeper loyalty in top malls, but growth will be uneven and sensitive to macro and policy signals.

Actionable Insights

Immediate Actions (Next 30-90 days)
Freeze net new store openings in China through Q1 and reallocate 30 to 40% of 2025 China capex to private client suites and event infrastructure in the top 10 malls
Rationale: Shifts spend from footprint growth to productivity in the highest-yield venues where VIC traffic and conversion are strongest
Role affected:CEO
Urgency level:immediate
Launch a 90-day VIC engagement sprint with 1 to 2 flagship events per city in Tier 1 and select Tier 2, targeting 60% invite acceptance and 35% event-to-purchase conversion
Rationale: Accelerates share capture from resilient high earners while reinforcing exclusivity and defending pricing into year end
Role affected:CMO
Urgency level:immediate
Short-term Actions (6-12 months)
Reallocate 100 to 150 bps of China opex from broad marketing to clienteling and CRM, and negotiate performance-based rents in top malls with experiential co-investment clauses
Rationale: Raises sales per store and margin mix while reducing fixed-cost exposure if recovery stalls
Role affected:CFO
Urgency level:short-term
Institute appointment-first operations with targets of 50% appointment penetration and 80% private-suite utilization on weekends for top doors
Rationale: Increases close rates and basket sizes for VICs and optimizes scarce staff time toward highest-value clients
Role affected:Head of Retail
Urgency level:short-term

Risks & Opportunities

Primary Risks
  • Macro and policy volatility in China and US trade tensions dampening sentiment and cross-border flows
  • Public sensitivity to conspicuous consumption, constraining event visibility and social amplification
  • Concentration risk in a handful of top malls leading to rent inflation and dependency
Primary Opportunities
  • Share gains from mid-market and under-invested peers via superior VIC retention and service density
  • Pricing power reinforcement through curated drops and limited editions tied to experiential moments
  • Omnichannel data flywheel by integrating WeChat Mini Programs, appointments, and post-event CRM journeys

Supporting Details

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