Proenza Schouler taps Rachel Scott as creative chief as founders join Loewe
Bottom Line Impact
If executed with tight icon discipline and supply readiness, Proenza can drive mid single digit revenue uplift and 200 to 300 bps margin expansion over 12 months while Loewe consolidates craft leadership, elevating both brands' market positions and equity.
Key Facts
5- Rachel Scott, age 41, appointed creative director at Proenza Schouler
- Scott founded Diotima in 2021 and previously served as VP of design at Rachel Comey
- Scott began her career in Milan at Costume National after studies at Istituto Marangoni
- Proenza Schouler won the inaugural CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund in 2004 and created the PS1 It bag in the late 2000s
- Founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez departed earlier in 2025 to take on Loewe; Scott's first Proenza runway is likely Feb 2026 NYFW based on a 4 to 6 month transition cadence
Time Horizons
Key Roles Affected
Executive Summary
A dual creative reshuffle places Rachel Scott at Proenza Schouler while founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez move to Loewe, resetting positioning across US and European luxury. Expect near term brand heat for Proenza with a craft-centric pivot and a medium term elevation race against Loewe's intensified craftsmanship narrative.
Actionable Insights
Immediate Actions (Next 30-90 days)
Greenlight a two season hero product roadmap anchored by PS1 relaunch Q2 2026 and two crochet knit carryovers, with controlled distribution across 25 to 40 top doors and DTC first access
Rationale: Concentrating on 3 to 5 repeatable icons maximizes margin and minimizes transition risk while monetizing initial brand heat
Role affected:CEO Proenza Schouler
Urgency level:immediate
Phase communications and clienteling around founder led debut with icon protection plan Puzzle, Hammock, Flamenco and 10 to 15 percent controlled scarcity on top SKUs
Rationale: Maintains revenue continuity while building anticipation for the new vision and safeguarding waitlist integrity
Role affected:CEO Loewe
Urgency level:immediate
Short-term Actions (6-12 months)
Reallocate 15 to 20 percent of capex to leather goods tooling and artisan onboarding, and set inventory turns target of 3.0 plus for new bags with 45 day test and repeat cycles
Rationale: Capex front loading accelerates leather goods mix shift and protects cash via disciplined replenishment
Role affected:CFO Proenza Schouler
Urgency level:short-term
Launch an alumni inspired capsule and digital editorial highlighting Milan roots and precision tailoring with 6 to 8 week drops and 20 percent limited runs
Rationale: Captures halo from Scott's appointment and converts attention into DTC growth and wholesale reactivation
Role affected:CEO Costume National
Urgency level:short-term
Risks & Opportunities
Primary Risks
- Creative dilution or conflict if Scott's Diotima commitments are not ring fenced, risking brand focus
- Supply chain delays from artisanal components adding 10 to 20 days lead time and margin leakage
- Wholesale caution leading to smaller first season buys and elevated mark down exposure
Primary Opportunities
- Icon bag relaunch PS1 2.0 to restore leather goods engines and raise full price sell through by 8 to 12 points
- Earned media surge and influencer adoption of craft signatures driving 10 to 20 percent traffic uplift
- Loewe narrative refresh to unlock cross category upsell while reinforcing atelier credentials