Zegna Group posts 53% H1 profit surge as DTC... — 2025-09-10

Luxury earnings and strategy moves signal a pivot to margin discipline and retail control. Zegna Group delivered a 53% H1 profit surge despite softer sales, funding brand overhauls, while Kering's incoming CEO promised tough restructuring to reignite Gucci's momentum. Meanwhile, Breitling and Valentino doubled down on flagship retail and partnerships to capture full-price demand in North America and Milan.

Key News for Today

Zegna Group posts 53% H1 profit surge as DTC growth offsets brand restructuring.

Why it matters: Margin expansion and cash generation give Zegna flexibility to invest in Tom Ford Fashion and Thom Browne transformations without sacrificing long-term positioning.

Impact: Expect healthier mix and profitability, though revenue growth is muted and weakness at Thom Browne remains a drag.

What to follow: H2 sell-through of Tom Ford fall 2025 in stores from late August, recovery in Thom Browne wholesale, DTC run-rate efficiency, and elasticity after U.S. price increases and tariffs.

Incoming Kering CEO Luca de Meo pledges "clear and strong" actions to revive Gucci owner.

Why it matters: A faster, more integrated operating model with cost cuts and brand rationalization could rebase margins and sharpen focus on growth brands.

Impact: Short-term disruption and potential restructuring charges may weigh on earnings before benefits flow through to operating margin and brand heat.

What to follow: Timing and scope of portfolio rationalization, updates on Gucci momentum, and clarity on leadership roles before 2026.

Breitling expands retail with new Montreal boutique as global footprint and NFL tie-up grow.

Why it matters: More owned retail in Canada builds DTC control and experiential engagement, while the NFL partnership broadens reach with U.S. sports audiences.

Impact: Incremental sales and higher full-price conversion in North America, plus brand awareness gains from league activations.

What to follow: Boutique productivity at Royalmount, Canada comps, and the first NFL co-branded product drops and marketing activations.

Valentino reopens flagship on Via Montenapoleone, adding store-only limited editions.

Why it matters: A refreshed Milan anchor enhances clienteling, tourism capture, and pricing power in a top luxury corridor.

Impact: Higher traffic and average selling prices should support leather goods mix and reinforce brand elevation.

What to follow: Store productivity versus pre-renovation levels, sell-through of the exclusive Valentino Garavani Vain bags, and Milan tourist flows.

Daily Analysis — 2025-09-10

Key News for Today

Zegna Group posts 53% H1 profit surge as DTC growth offsets brand restructuring.

Incoming Kering CEO Luca de Meo pledges "clear and strong" actions to revive Gucci owner.

Breitling expands retail with new Montreal boutique as global footprint and NFL tie-up grow.

Valentino reopens flagship on Via Montenapoleone, adding store-only limited editions.

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